Peptides containing Copper are one of the latest trending ingredients in the most recent launch of expensive serums. There is a lot of hype regarding these “secret dermatologist recommended wrinkle removers” but what is really going on?
Let’s breakdown what the ingredient actually is. Copper peptides are a mixture of broken down proteins and copper particles. The peptide portion of the molecule encourages skin cells to increase collagen production as well as assist in tissue repair. The copper particle functions as a cofactor for collagen and skin repair and therefore acts as a worker while the peptide functions as a messenger. This means that copper peptides instruct your skin to reinforce and repair tissue.
The use of copper peptides in skin care is legitimate and scientifically supported because copper peptides have been studied since the 1970s for their role in wound healing and other regenerative functions. In the right dose and combinations, copper peptides can help rejuvenate the skin by the gradual removal of damaged tissue at a microscopic level.
Where the exaggeration comes in is when companies claim that copper peptides are milder alternatives to retinoids. This is completely false because the two components are not even in the same category. While retinoids work by increasing the cell turnover rate, and cause gene expressions, copper peptides are supportive of collagen production and promote other reparative processes of the skin. Therefore the two products should not be thought of as substitutes, but rather having a completely different action on the skin.
Let’s address something else the brand conveniently neglects to mention? Copper peptides can be unstable and temperamental. They do not mix well with certain actives, particularly vitamin C and strong exfoliating acids. So if your routine is already packed with alpha-arbutin or azelaic acid, adding copper peptides without modifying your lineup may cause irritation or simply make the copper peptides ineffective. Most brands leave that important detail off the label.
Copper peptide concentration is also important, and good luck finding that info. Most products do not reveal the percentage of GHK-Cu (the most researched copper peptide), which is most likely the one referenced. Effective research ranges from 1% to 3%. I know of a serum that boasts “copper peptides” while listing it as one of the last ingredients, after three different preservatives. So that is not going to do anything.
Who should be the one to try it? People with average skin and general goals of improving it can try it without expecting much. However, if you have post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation or texture from previous breakouts, this can help you. If you are patient enough (I mean, months of waiting) and your skin is used to active ingredients, it may be a good addition for the long-term to your anti-aging arsenal.
But if you are sensitive, reactive, or pregnant, avoid copper peptides and speak with your doctor first. Some users may experience a purging-like phase, which seems to happen due to old impurities being brought to the skin’s surface, resulting in temporary congestion. It’s not typical purging, like what happens with retinol, but some may find copper peptides to lead to breakouts.
Starting with copper peptides can be rough, as was the case with my experience. The first month with the copper peptide serum was difficult; my skin looked dull and congested and I nearly gave up. However, I stuck with it, and around week six it began to improve. The little indentations from my old acne scars all gradually became less pronounced. My skin was like jelly, and its soft yet bouncy. It was subtle and I can’t say it replaced my retinol or anything, but I did notice a difference. I was surprised to see that my skin didn’t become red or peel.
If you want to try them, The Ordinary’s Buffet + Copper Peptides 1% is where I’d start — it’s around $30 and doesn’t require a second mortgage. Just use it on nights when you’re not using vitamin C or strong acids, and give it at least two months before you decide whether it’s doing anything.
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