People often call salicylic acid a “miracle ingredient” and claim it works wonders for improving acne. However, I’ve seen countless people use salicylic acid completely incorrectly and wonder why their skin seems to get worse. \n\nSalicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), meaning that it is oil soluble. This is why salicylic acid works differently than glycolic acid (an alpha hydroxy acid, or AHA) and other AHAs. Glycolic acid works by sitting on top of the skin and exfoliating the surface to get rid of the top layer of dead skin, while salicylic acid can penetrate your skin and get inside your pores because it is oil soluble. Salicylic acid dissolves the “gunk” that clogs your pores, which are dead skin cells and excess sebum that contribute to the formation of blackheads and acne.\n\nConcentration does matter, but probably not in the way you think. Most salicylic acid products sold over-the-counter contain 0.5% to 2% concentration. A lot of people think that a 2% concentration is better than a 0.5% concentration, but that is not how this works. Higher concentrations of salicylic acid will be more irritating to the skin, especially if it is your first time using it or if you have more sensitive skin. The pH of the formula impacts the effectiveness of salicylic acid as much (or more) than the % concentration does. Salicylic acid works best when the pH is between 3 and 4. If the product’s pH is too high, it will essentially render the salicylic acid inactive, and all you are doing is rubbing expensive water on your skin.
Here’s how the hype misses the mark: brands advertising salicylic acid as a miracle product that lets you put a pimple and watch it disappear is just false advertising. Salicylic acid is not a fixer and can’t take care of an active breakout. It’s preventative. Salicylic acid keeps your pores from forming new breakouts by focusing on prevention. If you have a cystic zit, slapping salicylic acid on it hoping it will go away is just not how that product works. It does not help and will not help the condition of your acne. It might reduce inflammation, but the horrible, painful zits that you struggle with are way too deep into the dermis for an acid to even help or reduce the inflammation. You’re going to have to deal with that one for a while.
Most people make the mistake of using salicylic acid for the first time by starting to use it every single day. I did this to my face, and I damaged my skin from doing this. That also meant that I broke out but now the new pimples formed in addition to the skin damage that I did. We have to remember that salicylic acid is a chemical exfoliant. It is not going to be the only product that you use, which means you run the risk of layering too many strong products on top of each other. Breakouts = more oil = cycle continues.
Salicylic acid may be useful for you if you have oily, acne prone skin and aren’t using any other actives. Start slowly at two or three times a week to see how your skin reacts. It may also be suitable for sensitive skin. If this is you, I recommend a lower concentration and much less frequent applications. If you’re pregnant or breastfeeding, consult your physician. Although high concentrations are not usually recommended, low-percentage leave-on products are typically considered safe. I’m not a doctor, so it’s best you seek medical advice elsewhere.
When I started using salicylic acid about four years ago, my first product was way too strong. It was a toner with 2% salicylic acid so I used it morning and night like the instructions suggested. My skin was tight and looked really shiny, and I kept breaking out along my jawline. I thought it was purging, but a purge doesn’t last six weeks. I then switched to a 0.5% salicylic acid cleanser and started using it three times a week which is when I started to see results. My nose blackheads became noticeably smaller, and I stopped getting little bumps under the skin on my forehead. It felt like it took forever, but I guess about three weeks is apparently normal.
The best starting point would probably be CeraVe Renewing SA Cleanser. It cost about twelve dollars, and it won’t dry out your skin. If you want an exfoliant that you can leave on, the Paula’s Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant is really popular for a reason. It is about thirty-five dollars, but it lasts for months.
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