Glycolic acid has the smallest molecular structure in the alpha hydroxy acid family, which makes it great at exfoliating the skin — and also makes it a potent skin irritant when misused. It’s an ingredient found everywhere from $12 drugstore toners to $80 cosmetic exfoliating pads that claim to give you glowing skin.
Glycolic acid has a smaller molecular structure than other common skin exfoliating acids, like lactic acid and mandelic acid. This allows glycolic acid to penetrate the skin deeper and quicker than other acids, which means the skin will appear to show faster results. However, the downside is that it is easier to damage the skin barrier with glycolic acid because it works so quickly.
Glycolic acid helps facilitate the shedding process in the skin’s surface layers by breaking down the adhesion (or glue-like) connections between skin cells. This results in a faster than normal shedding of the skin. A faster skin shedding process can also help improve the rate of skin cell turnover, which improves skin texture and helps get rid of skin dullness. It may also help improve collagen stimulation in the deeper layers of skin, which is also part of what chemically exfoliating skin peels helps do.
The hype surrounding glycolic acid has led many to overlook many important key factors and it would be nice to hear more discussion on these topics.
First, higher percentages are not better. I see glycolic acid toners, marketed to beginners at 20%, and that’s borderline reckless. Most people don’t need more than 5-10% to see results from a leave-on product. The brands advertising super high percentages are banking on the idea that “stronger” sounds more effective, but what you’re getting is more irritation without getting better results. A well formulated 8% serum will outperform a poorly formulated 15% toner every time.
Second, daily use is not the goal for most people. Your skin doesn’t need to be exfoliated every single day, and glycolic acid can be too aggressive for that frequency. I have noticed people who use it two or three times a week get better results than people who use it nightly because their skin actually has time to recover and build new cells instead of being constantly stripped down.
Third, it is not a quick fix for acne. Glycolic acid can help with texture and clogged pores, but when it comes to active breakouts, this isn’t your first move as it can actually make inflamed acne worse if over-exfoliating. That’s more so an over-exfoliation case, and for those who have been following along, niacinamide is better for barrier support, and that’s a better place to start if your skin is angry and broken out.
Who is it for? Those with dull skin or uneven texture. People with mild hyperpigmentation and early signs of aging can use it too. It works great on normal skin and oily skin that is also not sensitive. Who should skip it or go extremely slow? People with eczema, rosacea, or a sensitive skin barrier. If your skin stings when you wash your face with water, you should stay away from glycolic acid for now. Also, if you are using retinol, it’s important to avoid layering acids on top. That’s a one-way ticket to Irritation City.
My experience with glycolic acid was very frustrating. I started using a 10% toner every other night and my skin looked amazing for two weeks. Then I got cocky and thought I could use it daily. That was a huge mistake. I ended up with really tight skin that looked shiny, but not in a good way. I went back down to twice a week and then stayed there. I was still getting the texture benefits without making my skin raw. I really didn’t expect it to be so tough.
The Ordinary Glycolic Acid 7% Toning Solution is very straightforward and is about $9. If you want something that’s gentler, Glossier Solution has glycolic acid, lactic acid, and salicylic acid which means it is less likely to burn your skin while you figure out your tolerance.
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