A lot of people misunderstand retinol. Let’s start with what a retinol product actually does. Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A. When it is on the skin, it turns to retinoic acid and speeds up cell turnover. This encourages the skin to slough off old skin cells and replace them with a newer, younger layer of skin. This rejuvenation helps with fine lines, improves texture and tone, and helps with hyperpigmentation. Because of this, skin can look to be molting and peeling.
There is a lot of marketing for retinol products but each individual’s skin is different. Some skin can convert the retinol more quickly than others. Because of this, there is a lot of marketing hype that is misleading.
Every retinol product has some merit. However, if retinol is listed fourth or fifth on the ingredient list, that product is essentially worthless as a retinol product.
The retinol alternative trend is super annoying. New age skincare products that use bakuchiol as an “alternative” are marketed as gentler than retinol. The problem is, there really isn’t research backing these alternatives yet. Bakuchiol is interesting and could possibly be useful, but claiming it’s comparable to retinol is way off.
Then there’s the purging phenomenon. People expect retinol to cause purging, but what you might be experiencing is irritation. True purging is a result of increased cell turnover that brings already clogged pores to the surface. If you’re experiencing a lot of red, inflamed bumps in a place you normally don’t breakout, that is more irritation than purging.
Retinol is going to be most helpful for you if you’re concerned about fine lines, uneven texture, sun damage, and things of that nature. If your primary concern is redness, sensitivity, irritation, then retinol will likely not be your first choice. The same goes for those who are pregnant and breastfeeding since topical retinoids are a vitamin A no-no.
While darker skin may benefit from retinol, more caution is needed regarding irritation since inflammation may worsen dark spots. You need to go slow. Really slow.
Starting retinol was a long, boring process for me, and I learned the hard way how my skin reacted. I thought that I would see radical changes and jumped up to a daily use after only two weeks. My skin had other ideas, and I was left with tight sunburn-like skin and flakes around my mouth. After cutting back and waiting, I was rewarded with a smooth forehead after four months. Fading hyperpigmentation was the goal, so seeing no changes was the opposite of encouraging. I decided to add niacinamide and retinol together, which I actually think is a great combination.
With that said, more sensitivity was something I noticed. Exfoliating products that I had used prior stopped working entirely.
My top pick for beginner retinol is Ordinary Retinol 0.5% in Squalane. It is both low in price and active ingredients, so you won’t overcomplicate things while adjusting to it. Another solid pick is CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum, which is $18. It has ceramides and niacinamide to help soothe, which is great for adjusting.
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