I first learned about tranexamic acid a year ago and assumed it was another skin care gimmick, but I continued to see it pop up in credible brands and hear dermatologists discussing it in relation to stubborn dark patches.
First, tranexamic acid is NOT an exfoliant, which was shocking because most of the acids I hear about in skin care like salicylic, glycolic, or even azelaic acids, are resurfacing acids that clear out your pores. Tranexamic acid works from the inside out where melanin production occurs.
Here’s the simplified explanation: tranexamic acid disrupts communication of skin cells that trigger excessive melanin production by blocking an enzyme called plasmin, which activates melanocytes (the cells that produce melanin). Thus, the skin is told to stop its overproduction of melanin.
The studies, especially in relation to melasma are quite convincing. Tranexamic acid, when applied topically is known to reduce skin pigmentation. While prescribing oral medications for the treatment of melasma has been a standard practice for years, the newer practice is how brands are formulating tranexamic acid to be used in topical skincare products.
After doing some research, I have come to the conclusion that most dark spot treatments do not deliver what they promise. They do not “erase” dark spots, but they may help with new pigmentation, and MAYBE fade dark spots over time, but it will take months. I have seen plenty of dark spot treatments that claim they will produce visible results in two weeks. That’s just not how the ingredients work. It will take time for the skin to build up new skin cells.
Also, a lot of the dark spot treatments do not list what percentage of the active ingredients they use. Most research studies show that 2-5% tranexamic acid is an effective percentage range, however, I have seen products where tranexamic acid is listed as the fifth or sixth ingredient. They will charge about forty dollars for those products. If the ingredient is behind 3 humectants and a preservative, there is a good chance you will NOT be receiving an effective dose of the active.
It is also important to note that tranexamic acid is NOT a stand alone ingredient. It works best when it is combined with other brightening ingredients like niacinamide or vitamin C. It will be helpful, but not great if it is taken by itself. The products that tend to get great results are the ones that have tranexamic acid paired with a full brightening protocol.
So who exactly should be using tranexamic acid? It is best for those who have stubborn hyperpigmentation such as post-inflammatory marks from acne, melasma, and sun damage that will not go away. It seems to work especially well with melasma as it is notoriously hard to treat. Tranexamic acid also tends to be more gentle than other brightening actives, so it may be a good option for those who have sensitive skin or skin that tends to get irritated with high-strength vitamin C.
Who should skip it or go slow? Talk to your doctor first if you’re pregnant or breastfeeding. Tranexamic acid has history as a clotting agent, and while topical use is different from oral, it’s worth checking. This isn’t for you if you have active breakouts or texture issues. It’s strictly for pigment issues.
I began using a serum that has 3% tranexamic acid about four months ago. I wasn’t currently dealing with melasma, but did have some dark marks on my cheek from previous breakouts that didn’t seem to ever go away, even through months with topical azelaic acid. For the first 6 weeks I didn’t see anything, and almost gave up. But around week 8, I saw one of the spots was much lighter, though still visible. It was no longer the most noticeable thing about my face. By month 3 of treatment, I almost completely eliminated 2 out of the 4 spots. The other 2 are still present, albeit lighter. It wasn’t an extreme change, but something happened.
If you are looking to try it, I’d recommend The INKEY List Tranexamic Acid Serum as a starting point. It has 2% tranexamic acid and is around fifteen dollars. For about twelve dollars, Good Molecules also has a Discoloration Correcting Serum with tranexamic acid and niacinamide, which is the one I use now.
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