The only thing I recommend using every day is sunscreen, specifically S PF – but it’s probably the one thing we’re all getting wrong.
I’m referring to the actual UV blockers that are in your sunscreen. On a bottle with an SPF 50 label, there are likely multiple active ingredients that block UV rays, but there are also lots; of other active ingredients that aren’t doing much for your skin.
When it comes to UV filters, they are separated into two main categories: chemical and mineral. Chemical filters, including avobenzone and octinoxate, absorb UV rays and convert them into heat. On the other hand, mineral filters like zinc oxide and titanium oxide, reflect the rays and are designed to remain on top of the skin. *Both* types of filters can be effective, but manufacturers aren’t transparent about the positive and negative aspects of both types.
Depending on the brand’s formula, some might use more of one type of UV filter than the other even to the point of being one extreme. For example, while one type of filter may be protective against UVA and another may be protective against UVB, not all filters are broad-spectrum. Since some UV filters are designed to degrade in sunlight, as a result, brands are coming out with stabilizers to resolve the issue. That being said, there are some brands that are solving the issues that many sunscreens have, but the real world is a bit more convoluted than that.
Here’s what the hype gets wrong. The SPF number only tells you how much protection you get from UVB rays. It does not indicate what the coverage is for UVA rays, which is what causes wrinkles, skin pigmentation, and long term skin damage. In Europe and Asia, they have a separate PA rating for UVA protection (highest is PA++++), while the US reports “broad-spectrum” coverage and calls it good. While “broad-spectrum” is regulated to some degree, it only requires a minimum amount of UV protection.
And then there is the biggest lie of them all, reapplication. I’m sure you have heard that sunscreen needs to be reapplied every two hours, and then again after sweating or swimming. But let’s be real, most of us aren’t doing that especially if we have makeup on. But here’s the truth, chemical filters actually break down with exposure to UV rays. So if you put sunscreen on at 8AM and it’s now 2PM, you’re not really getting any protection.
The other thing people get wrong is the amount. For your face and neck, you need about a quarter teaspoon. That’s way more than the thin layer most of us apply. If you use less, you’re not getting the SPF that’s advertised on the label. If you’re using SPF 50 but only applying half of the recommended amount, you’re getting closer to SPF 7. The math does not scale linearly, but it tanks fast.
Who should use this? Everybody. End of story. An honest opinion: if your skin is dark, it’s likely that mineral sunscreens will cause a white cast unless you get one designed not to do that (those are out there, but not a ton). Chemical sunscreens aren’t as likely to cause a white cast, and are usually easier to apply. But some find them irritating, especially if they’re using actives like retinol or glycolic acid. If you have a sensitive skin, do a patch test first. Lastly, some chemical sunscreens like oxybenzone are not recommended for use during pregnancy, so many people choose a mineral sunscreen instead to play it safe.
For years I told myself that sunscreen in my moisturizer was enough. I was wrong. The sunscreen in the product is almost never enough to achieve the SPF that it advertises unless you’re using a thick layer, which no one does with a moisturizer. I started using separate sunscreen two years ago, and it took less than a few months for my cheeks and melasma to show improvement. I was also surprised to see my skin improve after stopping the use of chemical sunscreens that were supposed to be mattifying. I didn’t realize how drying they were until I switched to a more hydrating one. I’ve talked about how hyaluronic acid has dried me out, and a few of those lightweight sunscreens were doing the same with alcohol-heavy formulas.
I recommend trying and starting with La Roche-Posay Anthelios Melt-In Milk SPF 60 sunscreen as it retails for approximately $20 and feels more like a moisturizing lotion than sunscreen. For a $40 option that is a mineral sunscreen, I suggest EltaMD UV Clear as it does not leave a white cast and can be used as a makeup primer.
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